Jerryl Martelly’s collection Mamiku is characterised by its discipline and scrupulous construction, influenced as much by the self-sufficiency of his grandfather’s life in St Lucia’s Mon Repos as it is by internships at Craig Green and Acne Studios, which led to an ‘obsession with the developmental processes of my work.’ Martelly’s garments combine the meticulous structure of manual workwear and sportswear (he played professional hockey whilst studying) with subtle reminders of the indomitable natural world, upcycling military duffel bags into extended kneecaps and exaggerated elbows alongside a bizarre, haunting beaded mask which pays homage to Mon Repos’s salt marshes. The designer’s film returns to the self-reliance and control intrinsic to Mamiku through his experiences as a key worker during the global pandemic. True to this disciplined approach, Martelly now hopes to develop his design practise further through working for a fashion house or doing an MA. ‘Cut with function, free from constraints; in every garment protection is at the forefront.’

Ella Slater, BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism