George Mericas Kapsimalis, Womenswear designer from Athens, Greece designed a graduate collection that is situated somewhere ‘between fantasy and reality.’ Inspired by Mise en Abîme, an art technique that places a copy of an image within itself, Kapsimalis’ collection tells the story of ‘trapped memories and the sensuality of dreams.’

His approach is romantic and very much intuitive, ‘my design process depends on my mood and my vision at the time. Most of the time, I know which direction I am going as I ‘have seen.’ I have dreamed of what I want to make.’ The moulage technique is utilised throughout the brightly hued collection. Structural motifs are sprinkled heavily throughout the lineup – transforming the garments into wearable art pieces. Kapsimalis revisited previous concepts with a new approach for his lineup, ‘usually I start creating my shapes from patterns that I already have. This time the process was reversed,’ he explains.

The narrative of the collection is driven by his desire to ‘experiment with objects and memories of loved ones, which are stigmatising the garments.’ Creating a graduate collection is not an easy feat, especially during a pandemic. Despite the unideal circumstances, Kapsimalis’ graduate collection – which is simultaneously sexy and modern – is proof that ‘human determination and creativity are insane forces.’

Jamison Kent, BA Fashion Journalism